[Goanet-News] A Goan ripple in Dhobi Talao

[Goanet News]

A GOAN RIPPLE IN DHOBI TALAO
Roana Maria Costa visits a club whose membership per day is less than
the cost of a vada pav


    It's mid morning and Goa's nightingale Lorna's magnetic voice
fills the air as she croons Tuzo Mog, a famous Goan classic.
    In a little corner hidden behind a white sheet pinned up to cast
off the heat sits James Rodrigues adjusting the volume knob on his CD
player and watching the world go by. His shop, C F Rodrigues and Sons,
in the business of selling Konkani CDs and VCDs for over 70 years, is
stacked with music and tiatrs by Goa's artists like Alfred Rose, C
Alvares, Junior Rod, Jacinta Vaz and, of course, Lorna.
    Rodrigues couldn't have found a more perfect location than below
30-odd Goan clubs in Jer Mahal Estate. He knows his posters
strategically placed advertising 'Pisso Dotor', a Konkani comedy, will
find enough takers.
    Easily one of Mumbai's better chawls, Jer Mahal Estate at Dhobi
Talao is a stone's throw from Metro theatre and St Xavier's College.
Anyone could mistake this for one more old chawl especially when a
huge board screams Great Punjab Hotel on the first floor. Even when
you step through any of its five narrow entrances there are no
telltale signs. But walk up the wooden staircase and peep into any of
the rooms and you know that you are in the middle of Goanness. The
flavour of the tiny state fills your senses. The air is sussegado and
Konkani rules the airwaves.
    The club system in Jer Mahal does not involve gyms and swimming
pools. A club here is one or more rooms, which are more like huge
halls where Goan Catholics put up. Each village from Goa has its own
club. Some villages have more than one club, depending on how many
waddos or zones it has. Most members are male and take refuge in their
respective village clubs when new to the city.
    Cruz D'Costa came to Mumbai when he was 19. Resident at the
Majorda club for close to three decades, for him this is "a home away
from home—a second home''. He speaks passionately about his love for
Goa and how he holds the "the record'' for going home the maximum
number of times in a year, "at least eight times''. Taking the steps
two at a time and greeting everyone he meets, Cruz speaks a typical
South Goa, Salcette Konkani. He says that getting admission into the
club is simple—you need to be Goan, Catholic and have an
identification. Once you are a member, you can stay there as long as
you want.
    Every club has similar interiors: wooden or steel boxes called
pattis that line the walls, shoe stands, iron boxes and TV sets. One
characteristic feature is the painting or statue of the village patron
saint. The saint occupies pride of place at the altar and his or her
feast is celebrated annually. Each club also has its own kitchen and a
block of bathrooms as well as toilets that may or may not be attached.
    There are 200 Goan clubs in Mumbai spread over Dhobi Talao, Chira
Bazaar, Crawford Market, Dockyard, Mazgaon and Dadar. Dhobi Talao
houses the maximum number. These clubs or Kuds were set up in the
1920s when Goans started coming to the city in search of a livelihood.
They mostly took jobs in hotels or as seamen and were charged a
nominal lodging rate. Today, although the clubs may boast 10,000
members, the number of full-time residents has dropped sharply. This,
despite the fact, that the rent per day is less than a vada pav. Most
clubs charge members Rs 40 a month.
In Dinshaw Mahal, you find magician Praxis Remedios from the Guirim
club. A resident for over two decades, Praxis says, "Not many Goans
know about the club. Though accommodation is inexpensive, takers are
few as there is no privacy. Everyone just puts their bedding on the
floor for the night.'' Praxis's father came to the city in the early
century as opportunities in Goa were few. He says, "Today, hardly any
Goan wants to be in Mumbai for long. They see it as a gateway, to gain
experience and move to the Gulf, US, UK or the ship. Unlike earlier,
one can do most of the paperwork for immigration or to sail in Goa
itself.'' Cruz adds that people prefer to check into a hotel with
their families even though the clubs offer a family room for Rs 50 a
day.
    Gilbert Pinto from the Bastora club laments that even up to five
years ago his club had 25 full-time members, while today there are
only three guest members. Jobs abroad and on the ship pay so much
more, he says, that people prefer those to a life in Mumbai. Andrade
Costa from the Nuvemcares club says this is second home to him, and
today the building is better maintained than 10 years ago after its
interiors were repaired.
    Joel Fernandes lights up when you mention football. "It's just an
excuse for the whole club to sit together in their jerseys and root
for their favourite team,'' he says. "By the way, it's Brazil,'' he
whispers with a smile.
    With dwindling numbers,old customs like the evening rosary are
dying.But veterans like Cruz and Praxis say that the clubs are still a
great place to catch up on the gossip over an evening drink. Even
though these residents have lived in Mumbai for decades their culture,
speech and mannerisms have not changed. As you talk to Praxis,
Gilbert, Joel or Cruz, one thing is clear—you can take a Goan out of
Goa but you can't take Goa out of a Goan.
Threat of demolition? Not yet
There is confusion among the residents about whether the building,
which is over a hundred years old, may be torn down. However,
coordinator of the Jer Mahal Estate Forum Farookh Shokri squashes all
such fearmongering. He explains that the building is a Grade III
building, which means it can be demolished only if 70% of the tenants
approve. That is not the case right now. The Forum is also pushing to
make the building Grade II to ensure that its facade is protected. For
this, the urban development ministry has to grant permission. Shokri
says, "We are facing no threat or pressure from the developer.''
    President, Jer Mahal Tenants' Residential Clubs Association,
Thomas Sequeira says a builder, Rohan Developers, has bought the
property and approached them to redevelop it but has not come up with
a final plan.

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Thanks to goanvoice.org.uk for the link